City Kitchen — a New NYT Cooking Column by David Tanis

David Tanis — a cookbook author and longtime chef at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse — just kicked off a new column for The New York Times called City Kitchen. The column is about cooking at home and, more specifically, about cooking in cramped city kitchens. But no matter the size of your kitchen, the column promises to be great source of cooking insight and experience.

His debut column — titled “Small Space, Big Flavor: First, Start the Beans” — reminded me that I’m a dolt for not cooking with dried beans. As Tanis writes, “a small batch of freshly cooked beans is well worth the little effort it takes to get them cooked. … Don’t cave and go the canned-bean route — save those for emergencies or camping trips.”

I’m going to throw my can opener away. Or at least as The Professor to hide it.

In any case, check out the column and the accompanying recipe for Cannellini Bean Salad with Shaved Spring Vegetables, which looks delicious.



2 Comments so far. Leave a comment below.
  1. Just the opposite of what I decided about beans. After three or four attempts over twenty years to cook dried beans, in the Tuscan manner with sage and olive oil, hoping they would remain intact but be as deliciously flavorful as I remembered them, I opted for the can opener with perhaps a finish in olive oil and sage or thyme or basil.

  2. I meant to add: I will be very interested in how The Cook’s experiment turns out, and how much work she considers it all in all. One problem I had was keeping the beans at a slow simmer without constant monitoring, but my stove then was not very good.

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